Begin with the Acropolis early in the day, climbing past the theatres to the Parthenon, then descend into the ancient Agora. The new Acropolis Museum brings it all into focus.
Spend the afternoon wandering Plaka and Monastiraki, browsing markets and stopping for meze. Climb Lycabettus or Filopappou Hill for sunset over the city and sea.
By night Athens comes alive with rooftop bars and tavernas. It is a city that mixes 2,500 years of history with one of Europe most energetic street-food and nightlife scenes.